Terence Galuszka Astrophotography

Dew Heaters

There is no getting around these on a SCT. The Dew Heaters I'm using are made by Thousand Oaks Optical. They come in various sizes and depending on the weather are wrapped around EP's, finder scopes and guide scopes.

If you have time you can make these yourself using resistors and heater wire from the electronics shop. The controller unit is also Thousand Oaks, again there's not much to them; just comes down to time verse money.

Extension Tubes

Best Friend for achieving back focus on most scopes. These are plain old GSO and at $30NZD they do the job for reaching focus on all my scopes.

Filters

No matter what you are looking at in the night sky, the right type or colour filter will enhance constrast, reduce light pollution or make DSO's easier to image.

Some filters you may want are: Red, Orange, Grey (various), blue, Green, Light Pollution Reduction, Hydrogen-Alpha, broadband nebula filter. They come in 1.25in and 2in sizes, but just buy the 2in one's from the start and you'll save some cash in the long run.

Filters such as Hydrogen-beta, Oxygen-III are a very specialsed, so unless you really need them; don't buy them.

Personally, I recommend Astronomik, Baadar, Celestron, Lumicon and Hutech filters. The Orion Skyglow is also a good choice. Stay away from the cheap ones.

Focusers

On the C11, I've upgraded the focuser to the FeatherTouch SCT focuser for moving the primary mirror. It has a 10:1 fine adjustment and works very well when imaging at F2.

For F10 and F6.3 imaging or visual use, I also have a JMI Event Horizon EVM-2 motorised focuser. This provides me with a very fine focus, so I can lock the mirror when imaging.

Green Laser Pointer

                           *** Laser Pointers are NOT toys***

A 30mW green laser pointer is an ideal way to help others find their way around the night sky and I use this when running observation evenings/Star Parties and such like. But don't go to a observing evening and just whip one of these out unless you've asked permission to use it. Remember they're not a toy, are very dangerous, can cause loss of sight and having 10 of them in the sky is a lot of light pollution and really annoying.

Red Torch and Flashlights

These are easy to make. Just go get a $3 AAA LED torch, buy $2 worth of RED LED's, take it home and solder the new LED's in.

Battery Packs

I use 12v 12ah sealed lead acid batteries and a Celestron Power Tank.

The Celestron 17ah powertank is really handy as it has a built in radio, red touch and huge spotlight. It servers two roles: 1 power the telescope for an evening and 2 as an emergency kit item.

For the Toyota Hilux, I have a 130ah Deep Cycle battery and installed in the tray. I use this for road trips and charge it up of the engine when driving to and from my chosen dark site.

130ah is about all I can manoeuvre and will run 2 laptops, the GOTO mount, CCD's and accessories for up to 3 days.

T Adaptors

I use these with my DSLR camera and they make for an easy way to image at prime focus. Get the right one for your camera, connect it and start imaging without the need for laptops.

USB Cables and Powered Hubs

GOTO scopes and CCD imaging involves using laptops and a good range of USB Cables is a must. A powered USB hub is advisable if you plan to remotely control your GOTO scope and image at the same time.

ShoeString Astronomy Autoguider

This little box provides a cost effective guiding solution, allowing you to use any CCD as an autoguider and interfaces with PHD guiding.

Focal Reducers

The F6.3 SCT Focal Reducer was originally designed by Celestron and using one will allow you to image about 30% faster, whilst providing a slightly wider field of view when using your SCT visually.

I recommend the Celeston F6.3 Focal Reducer that is made in Japan. It's high quality and works really well.

There is also a F3.3 Focal Reducer made by Meade invention, but it only works for CCD imaging and produces significant vignetting on large chips.

Lastly, the F5.0 focal reducer. I use this on the Orion DeepSky Color Imager II and it works pretty well without causing  much distortion. It's also very well priced.

Telegizmo 365 Scope Cover

Until I finish the observatory, mutliple clear nights will see me park the CGE and throw a Telegizmo 365 scope cover over it. I got this from astronomics and it works a treat. It's designed so that you can leave your scope outside all year round.

Air blowers and cleaning gear

A standard camera air blower, some microfiber towels and optical cleaning fluid is all you need.

Most telescopes can get away with just blowing dust off with an air blower, but once every 12-18 months you might need to clean it with a light cleaning solution of Isopro, distilled water, a drop of detergent and ether.

Rule of thumb, the closer to your eye the more you can clean it. Corrector Plates, objective lenses should be handled with care.

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